Forty-One Bars, One Obsession With Genetics
Domori's catalog reads less like a product range and more like a working library of cacao varieties.
By Rami
Of the 41 Domori bars in the archive, the one that stops you is the Criollo 70% from Venezuela, currently the only bar in the collection to carry a perfect five-square rating. Criollo is one of the rarest cacao genotypes, historically prized because the trees yield less fruit and resist disease poorly, which is precisely why most commercial chocolate abandoned it. That Domori built a significant part of their range around sourcing and preserving specific varieties, including the Canoabo from Venezuela, visible here as a 62% bulk drop, tells you something about their priorities. The archive holds bars across formats, from single-origin darks to a 35% dark milk with Sicilian almonds and honey, to gianduja and puffed rice miniatures. The range is wide, but the genetics thread runs through it. Six members have reviewed so far, returning an average of 4.17 squares. There is room to add to that count.
